An Eye for Eyelet
Interfacings & Linings
Color and fabric drape play a big part in choosing fabrics for lining and interfacing. Add body to a drapey eyelet fabric with a stiff lining fabric. Or preserve the drape with a softer lining.
The drape or "hand" of a fabric may be soft or stiff. Test by draping the fabric over your fist. Does it fall in smooth folds (soft hand), or does it stand out away from the skin (firm hand)?
Sew-in and iron-on interfacings won't work with eyelet because of limited color range and opacity. Instead, select a crisp fabric, such as organza or organdy, in a color that blends with the base fabric color. Apply fabric interfacing as you would sew-in interfacing.
To preserve the transparent aspect of eyelet, use a solid-color lining with a similar hand, such as silk, rayon, polyester chiffon, cotton lawn or gauze. For lacier eyelet designs select tulle, sheer tricot or stretch illusion.
Choose a color that enhances the eyelet. A perfectly matched lining may look drab (1), while a dramatic color contrast emphasizes the design (2). A white or flesh-tone lining adds a little sparkle to eyelet openings (3).
Replace a self-fabric facing with an edge-to-edge lining cut from the front and back pattern pieces. Or take the easy way out and stitch or purchase a separate camisole or slip.
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Stitching Eyelet Batiste
Stitching techniques and needle and thread choices vary according to the base fabric. To make the featured blouse, use lightweight cotton fabrics with a soft hand, such as batiste or lawn. Prewash the yardage.
Set the machine for a shorter stitch length (2.0). Loosen both the upper and lower tension so the fabric doesn't pucker.
Use a small-hole throat plate and singlehole presser foot to help keep the softer fabric from being pushed into the bobbin area. If using a large-hole throat plate and an all-purpose foot, move the needle to the far-left position to support the stitching on three sides.
Staystitch the neckline immediately after cutting to preserve the curves and keep the fabric from stretching as it's handled.
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