Heirloom garments: They're not just for babies anymore.
Madeira Appliqué is a technique using a "turned edge"appliqué that is attached using a pin stitch. This technique originated in Madeira, Portugal, and can be used for various motifs or border hems.
WHEN MOST OF US HEAR THE WORD HEIRLOOM, we think of christening gowns, baby bonnets and laced-adorned, frilly children's clothes.This tailored vest showcases traditional heirloom techniques, such as Madeira appliqué, pin stitches and embroidery, while retaining a sophisticated edge.
MATERIALS
Lined vest pattern without darts or princess seams
White linen fabric according to pattern requirements for the vest and lining
White cotton organdy, enough yardage to cut two vest fronts
To prepare the appliqué border for the vest fronts, two vest fronts are cut, stitched together at the turned edge with wash-away thread, then turned, pressed and separated. This makes turning a uniform edge fast and easy.
From the linen, cut all pieces indicated in the pattern instructions for the vest and lining. From the cotton organdy, cut one right front and one left front.
On the wrong side of one linen front, use the water-soluble marker and the seam gauge to draw a line 1 1/2" from the cut edge all the way around the vest front.
Place the two linen front pieces right sides together. Set up the machine with a size 80/12 Microtex needle, wash-away basting thread through the needle and lightweight cotton thread in the bobbin. Adjust the machine for a 1.5 mm straight stitch.
Turn the vest fronts so the marker line is face up. Stitch on the line all the way around the vest fronts (1).
On the wrong side of one linen front, use the water-soluble marker and the seam gauge to draw a line 1 1/2" from the cut edge all the way around the vest front.