One Pattern, 3 Looks

By Claire Meldrum

Conquer your fears and change what you see on the pattern envelope to create three distinct looks. A basic pattern and personal design sense are all you need to create unique and fashionable garments that are all about you.

MANY SEWERS SEE THE PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE PATTERN PACKAGE and simply replicate it as is, right down to the fabric choice. Even if they'd like to branch out, perhaps by incorporating a different collar or by using a different fabric, they're afraid of "getting it wrong."

The key to addressing that fear is to get the creative juices flowing. Start with a very straightforward blouse pattern, such as Butterick 4922, to make three very different garments.You'll tap into a whole range of moods, colors and styles to personalize each one

Get Inspired Most sewers have to fit in sewing projects around other responsibilities, such as jobs, families and other everyday duties. So when they do have a chance to sit down and sew, it's liberating to create something unique that reflects their talent and personal style.Think of it as "want" sewing rather than "should" sewing.

Before setting foot in the fabric store, take a look at your closet and jot down what types of garments you already have. How many blouses and tops do you have? Skirts? Pants? Dresses? Are your clothes mostly casual or are they better suited for the office?What colors predominate?What fabrics?What do you like about these garments?What don't you like?

Note which garments you lack. You may have thirty-two pairs of jeans, but are you missing a fabulous flirty skirt? Maybe you need a glamorous blouse for an important evening out? A welltailored jacket? Don't worry about practicality; just think about what you want to wear.

Think about what colors you love and look best wearing. Consider what fabrics feel the best against your skin. Decide what mood you would like the garment to evoke when you wear it. Gather inspiration from magazines, stores and photography.

Sketch out your dream garment, making notes as to the sleeve or hem length, the type of fabric you'll use, details like pockets or piping, etc. Don't worry about your drawing skills - Givenchy isn't looking over your shoulder. Just try to capture the main ideas and style lines, always keeping in mind the mood you want to convey.You'll refine the design as you go.

Find a Pattern The Internet is an excellent resource because you can easily print out and compare lots of pattern images.At the fabric store, it can be difficult to compare different patterns because they're cataloged in a book format.

Try not to look at the sample garments or color sketches on the pattern envelope, as they can limit your ability to imagine anything else for the finished garment. Instead, look at the black and white line drawings.They represent the garment's design most clearly.

Consider whether the pattern's style lines and ease are similar to those of your ideal garment. Don't choose a bulky, loose-fitting jacket if you want to make a sleek, fitted blouse. Sleeve and pant lengths, collar styles, closure placements, pockets and other surface details are easy to change.Your primary concern should be matching the ease and the overall garment shape and fit.

Choose Fabric & Trim Make sure that the pattern you've chosen is designed for the fabric type and weight that you intend to use. Patterns designed for knit fabric shouldn't be made up in woven fabric and vice versa. If you choose a fabric with a different weight or density than the recommended fabric, you may need to make serious structural alterations. Don't overlook fabrics that aren't exactly what you initially envisioned or those that you wouldn't usually wear. Personalizing your garments can mean stepping outside of your comfort zone. Keep an open mind and try unexpected combinations.

Be flexible. Even though you have an all-black garment in mind, you might see brilliant green lace and electric blue taffeta that inspires you to take the project in a new direction. Your final product may be very different from what you first envisioned, but its mood-glamorous and eye-catching- will still be exactly what you hoped for.

Change it Up
Pattern modifications might terrify some sewers, but there's really nothing to fear.The three unique garments featured in this article all started with a basic pattern. Use the following ideas as a starting point, and apply the techniques to a wide range of garments to make them your own.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED
7 Basic blouse pattern, such as Butterick 4922
7 Tissue paper
7 Ruler and French curve
7 Tape
7 Colored pencils

Asian-Inspired Blouse
A beautiful lilac silk fabric with bamboo shoots inspired the two changes to the original blouse pattern: contrasting violet silk cuffs trimmed with light grey piping and a mandarin collar. Otherwise, the garment is structurally identical to the original pattern.

When making pattern alterations, it's easier to work with a net pattern (pattern without seam allowances). Cut out the pattern piece that you plan to alter from the original pattern.Trace around it on a new piece of paper. Cut away the seam allowances to create the net pattern; you'll add them back when you're ready to cut out the fabric and begin construction.

To add the cuffs, draw a line on the net sleeve-pattern piece where you want the cuff to begin.

Add one or two registration marks to the line (1). These will be transferred to the fabric to align the pieces when you're sewing them together.

Cut apart the pattern pieces and label them. During construction, sew these pieces together before assembling the rest of the garment.

To create the mandarin collar, measure and record the net pattern front (A) and back (B) neck opening measurements (2).

On tissue paper, draw a rectangle combining the neck opening measurements (A&B) for the length as shown. Its height should be 1" to" 1 1/2".Mark the center-front, center-back and shoulder seam along the lower edge (3).

Round the rectangle upper corners using a French curve.

Draw four evenly spaced vertical lines on the collar. Carefully cut along each line, leaving a hinge at the rectangle lower edge. Overlap each line 1/4" at the upper edge, so the collar curves up slightly. Tape the overlapped areas in place (4).

Retrace the collar, smoothing out the upper- and lower-edge curve.Transfer all marks.

During construction, cut four collar pieces from the fabric and two from mediumweight interfacing.

Construct the blouse as directed in the pattern guidesheet.

Lace Tunic Fabulous beaded lace takes center stage in this design.The blouse has a totally different look thanks to some simple changes to the length, sleeves and neckline.

To add to the bodice overall length, tape additional tissue to the net-pattern lower edge. Draw a parallel line 2 1/2" below the original hemline. Draw lines connecting the side seams to the new line.

To shorten the sleeve, draw a horizontal line on the sleeve net pattern at the new length: 2 1/2" shorter for 3/4 - length sleeves.To eliminate the bell shape, redraw the two underarm seam sides, tapering them as desired.Measure each side to ensure that they're the same length. For the new bateau neckline, draw a wide, shallow arc on the front pattern piece, approximately 1/2" from the outer shoulder and approximately 1" below the existing front neckline point (5). Cut away the excess. Repeat for the back pattern piece.

Construct the blouse as directed in the pattern guidesheet.

Linen Blouse with Inset Yoke This garment requires slightly more complicated alterations, but the changes are still straightforward.The hemline shape has been changed, the sleeves have been reworked as cap sleeves and an inset yoke with a face-framing collar has been added for a dramatic touch. For the shirttail hem, mark the net front pattern piece side seam 3" up from the lower edge. Draw a curved line from this point to the lower edge centerfront point (6). Cut away the excess. Repeat for the back pattern piece. Lower the sleeve cap height by marking the sleeve net pattern 3/8" down from the sleeve-cap upper edge. Draw a line that connects the front notch, the lowered sleeve-cap mark and the back notch (7).

Measure and mark 41/2" down from the new shoulder point.Mark the pattern edges 1 1/4" down from the bicep line on each side. Draw a curved line connecting these three points (8). Cut away the excess along the new lines. Between the front and back notches, draw five evenly spaced vertical lines on the sleeve pattern from the upper edge to the lower edge. Cut along the lines, leaving a hinge at the upper edge. Spread the sleeve on a new piece of paper so the lower edge is as straight as possible; tape in place. Curve the sleeve lower corner up on each side, approximately 1/2" (9). Trace around the sleeve, transferring all marks.

For the front and back yokes, mark the front net pattern piece 1 1/4" in from the outer shoulder and approximately 5" down from the center-front neckline. Connect the marks with a curved line; make a registration mark. Repeat for the back,making a mark 4" down from the center-back neck and connecting it to the mark 1 1/4" in from the outer shoulder (10).

To create the modified roll collar/ front yoke piece, position the front-yoke piece right side up on a fresh piece of paper. Position the back-yoke piece right side down over the front-yoke piece,matching the outer shoulder corners.The rotation point is located where the back-yoke inner shoulder falls along the front-yoke shoulder seam (11).

Rotate the back-yoke piece counterclockwise so there's a 2 1/4" vertical distance between the back-yoke shoulder corner and the front-yoke neckline.Trace the front shoulder and yoke lines and back neckline (12), making a registration mark on the back neckline piece and on the new line. Set aside the frontand back-yoke pattern pieces.

Draw the new collar style line. The back-collar height should be no more than 1 1/2" the front collar can take any shape according to your design preference (13). This garment features a stylized, triangular collar shape. During construction, cut two pairs of front yoke/collars and two pairs of back yokes. Cut one pair of front collar interfacing pieces for stability if desired.Assemble the yoke/collar before attaching it to the blouse. Construct the blouse as directed in the pattern guidesheet.

Pattern Pointeers
SAFETY NET
Working with a net pattern eliminates the risk that you'll forget to add seam allowances to just one seam while you're cutting out the garment. If you're not comfortable adding the seam allowances back during the cutting process, retrace the modified net pattern on a fresh sheet and draw in the new seam allowance before cutting out your fabric.
COLOR CODE
Use colored pencils to keep track of successive modifications. Trace each step in the modification process in a different color, making it easy to find your most recent alteration and cutting lines. Make yourself a key by jotting down the order of the colors on the tissue paper so you'll always know which line to follow.
COPY THAT
Use heavy tissue paper or nonwoven interfacing for tracing copies of pattern pieces. This also allows you to keep your original tissue copies uncut and ready for another outfit.

Claire Meldrum has been writing and sewing since she was young, and now teaches at her local community college. As a full-time graduate student and mom of two young sons, she's always looking for techniques that allow her to maximize her limited sewing time. Claire knew her husband was a keeper when he gave her a new sewing machine as a gift when they were dating.