The Basics: Mastering Zippers
By Kristina Harris
Zippers revolutionized how we dress. Imagine, before the invention of the zipper, having to fasten dozens of hooks and eyes each morning--and sewing all those hooks and eyes in place! By contrast, the zipper is quick and easy. Don't fear any pattern calling for a zipper; by following the steps outlined here, you can learn to sew a great zipper closure.
A common difficulty is how to sew neatly around the zipper tab. The easiest solution is to avoid sewing around the zipper tab altogether by buying a zipper 1" to 2" longer than needed. The extra length will extend at the opening upper edge and then be trimmed after insertion. Insert the zipper, pull the tab down and secure the zipper upper ends with another seam (facing, waistband, etc.) or thread tacking. Trim the zipper to the correct length.
On lightweight fabric, consider interfacing the seam allowances before inserting a zipper; this creates a cleaner, crisper look that's less likely to pucker.
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Kristina Harris is the author of a dozen books on historical fashion, including Victorian & Edwardian Fashions for Women. She lives and sews in Oregon.
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