The Basics: Mastering Zippers
centered zipper
The most common zipper opening is centered down the back or front of a garment. Also, zippers placed in purses, pillows, and other items usually use a centered application. Centered zippers are ideal for everyday clothes, especially for fabric that's heavyweight, has thick pile or needs to be matched at the seam.
In a centered closure, the zipper is concealed by two flaps of cloth running along either side. When completed, two lines of stitching (one on each side of the zipper) are visible from the right side.
Placement for the lower zipper stop is usually marked on the pattern. Stitch the seam with a normal stitch length below this mark, backstitching at the mark. Above the mark, machine-baste the seam. Press the entire seam open.
With the garment wrong side up, place the closed zipper right side down on the seam allowances with the zipper teeth centered along the basted seamline and the lower stop just below the end of the basting. (Placing the zipper lower stop below the basting ensures you won't stitch over the metal stop while topstitching the zipper lower end.) Pin the zipper in place through the seam allowances only; don't pin through to the outside of the garment (1).
Using a zipper foot, baste the zipper to the seam allowances only. (2).
From the garment right side, topstitch the zipper in place using a zipper foot. To prevent ripples, sew both sides of the zipper in the same direction. Begin at the zipper upper edge and stitch to the end of the basted seamline, then pivot and stitch over to the seamline. Don't backstitch; instead, leave a thread tail to pull to the wrong side. Repeat to sew the zipper opposite side (3).
For best results topstitching, use a stitch slightly longer than regular sewing, but not as long as a basting stitch. Be careful to stitch an even distance from the teeth. If this is difficult, use a topstitching guide, or center 1/2"-wide cellophane tape along the seam and stitch just beyond the tape edges.
Pull the thread ends to the wrong side and tie off. Remove the basting and press with a cool iron.
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