The Basics: Mastering Zippers
lapped zipper
When zippers first became popular, most of them were sewn in what's called a lapped closure. Lapping a zipper hides the teeth better, which is why it's often the application of choice for dressy clothing or when the zipper doesn't match the fabric exactly. It's also an excellent choice for delicate fabric or pile fabrics that can catch in the zipper teeth.
A lapped zipper is concealed by a single fabric flap; only one stitching line is visible from the right side. Lapped zippers are often used in the left side-seams of pants and skirts.
For a lapped zipper, the seam allowances should be at least 5/8". Stitch the garment seam below the lower stop with a normal stitch length, and machine-baste the seam above the lower zipper stop. Press the seam open.
With the garment wrong side up, place the closed zipper right side down on the seam allowances with the lower stop just below the end of the basting. Line up the left edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the left seam allowance and pin in place through the seam allowance only. Using a zipper foot and a 1/4" seam allowance, stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance only (4).
Flip the zipper to the left so it's face up.This will create a fold in the seam allowance--but not in the zipper tape. Bring this fold close to (but not touching) the zipper coils. Sew the zipper in place close to the edge of the fold (5).
From the garment right side, topstitch the left-hand side of the zipper (the overlap) starting at the lower end. Slowly stitch across the zipper then up the left side 3/8" from the seamline (6).
Pull the thread ends to the wrong side and tie off. Remove the basting and press with a cool iron.
If the only zipper you have is the exact length needed, follow these instructions for neater stitching. After basting the zipper to the seam allowances, remove 2" of seam basting at the zipper upper edge. Pull the tab down about an inch, and topstitch the zipper in place from the upper end just to the tab. Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and close the zipper. Lower the foot and continue stitching to the zipper lower edge. For a centered zipper, repeat for the opposite side.
|
