Knit-ty Gritty
Choosing a Pattern
Patterns designed for knit fabrics will state so on the pattern envelope. You can make knit garments with patterns designed for woven fabrics, but you may need to make a smaller size than the envelope indicates. There are different amounts of ease built into each type of pattern, so some fitting adjustments may be necessary. If you've never sewn with knits, choose a for-knits pattern to avoid frustration.
Knit fabrics have different degrees of stretch. Some stretch very little while others may stretch over twice their original size. Patterns will have a stretch guide on the envelope or specify the amount of stretch required. Choose fabric that matches the stretch recommendation, so the resulting garment is the right size. If the pattern has the "pick-a-knit" ruler, your fabric should stretch easily from the beginning mark to the end.
To determine the percentage of fabric stretch, fold the yardage along the crosswise grain in the middle of the fabric; folding along the edge will give an inaccurate reading. Place a pin at each end of a 4" folded section. Take hold of the fold at the pins and place one pin at the end of a ruler and pull the fabric with the other hand to see how far it will easily stretch (1). If it stretches to 5", it has 25% stretch; 6" equals 50% stretch; 7" equals 75% stretch and 8" equals 100% stretch. While still holding the fold, let the fabric relax and measure it again to check its recovery. It should return to its original size--if it doesn't, the finished garment will sag with wear.
Most knits have less lengthwise stretch than crosswise stretch. The lengthwise stability reduces bagginess in the garment knees and seat. The crosswise stretch goes around the body, building in comfort and often eliminating the need for darts and other shaping details.
Ribbing, binding or turned-and-stitched necklines are frequently substituted for facings, and zippers are preferred over button closures. Look for patterns with these design elements, or choose ones that can be adapted easily.
From the July 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.
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