Knit-ty Gritty
Buttonholes
TO PREVENT BUTTONHOLES FROM STRETCHING OUT OF SHAPE, back them with interfacing and/or cord the buttonhole. Interfacing shouldn't make the fabric stiff--use a fusible tricot or a lightweight, sew-in woven interfacing; test a swatch. When using a tricot interfacing, rotate it so the crosswise stretch is perpendicular to the crosswise stretch of the fabric to minimize stretching. Test-stitch buttonholes before stitching on the garment.
Buttonholes can "fish-mouth" even when the area has been interfaced. Instead of using the satin stitch, which can ripple, lengthen the stitch slightly so it's not so dense (A).
To further stabilize the fabric, place water-soluble stabilizer under the fabric. If a lacy knit has openings that might catch on the presser foot or if the knit has a high loft, place a second layer of the stabilizer on top.
To stabilize a buttonhole, cord it with buttonhole twist, gimp or elastic thread. Position the cord or thread in the buttonhole foot and catch it in the stitching. Use a needle to pull the cord ends to the wrong side. Pull the ends slightly to adjust the buttonhole size. Tie a knot and run the tails between the stitching and the fabric (B).
Stitch buttonholes in ribbing, parallel to the ribs if possible. This allows the ribbing to stretch uniformly.
From the July 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.
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