Knit-ty Gritty

Zippers

INSERT ZIPPERS IN KNIT GARMENTS the same way you insert them in woven fabrics. Invisible and exposed zippers are frequently used with good results.

Stabilize the fabric in the zipper area. Cut a narrow strip of fusible tricot interfacing along the lengthwise grain and apply it to the wrong side of the zipper seam. Test on a scrap first to see if the interfacing makes the fabric appear stiff. If so, apply it only to the seam allowance (A).

Preshrink the zipper. Place it in very hot water for a few minutes and then allow to dry. If the tape shrinks, causing the zipper to distort, use a different zipper.

Work on a flat surface. The slightest turn of the cloth (bending the zipper and fabric together) can shift the placement, resulting in a lumpy zipper.

Mark across the seam allowances at close intervals on both sides of the zipper opening. Align the marks when inserting the zipper to keep both sides even, especially with separating zippers.

Baste carefully. Place pins perpendicular to the zipper edge to minimize distortion. Hand-baste so the zipper doesn't slip (B), or use basting tape to securely hold the zipper in place (C). A glue stick gives the same result as basting tape; let it dry completely before stitching. Both of these glue-basting products wash out.

From the July 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.