Knit-ty Gritty

Stabilizing Stretch

Areas on a knit garment where you want to eliminate stretch include: armholes, shoulder seams, waistlines, necklines and zippers. When sewing these seams, position hem binding, stay tape, clear elastic, or a narrow strip of self-fabric (cut along the direction of least stretch) over the seam; stitch through all layers at once without stretching as you sew (5). Place seam stabilizers on the garment front wrong side, and press the finished seam toward the garment back.

Topstitching also helps stabilize a seam. Press the seam allowance to one side. From the garment right side stitch about 1/4" from the seam through all layers.

Eliminating Facings

Neckband finishes should lie flat against the body. Use self-fabric bands only if the knit has 50% or more stretch. If the fabric has less stretch, use a ribbing or other stretchy banding.

From the July 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.