Knit-ty Gritty

Pressing

Pressing knits during construction is just as important as when sewing woven fabrics.

Avoid stretching the fabric when pressing. Press in an up and down motion instead of resting the iron on the fabric and moving it back and forth. Don't let the garment hang over the edge of the ironing board while it's still warm and moist--gravity will pull the fabric out of shape. Let the fabric rest flat on the ironing board until it has cooled and dried. Acrylic fibers are more susceptible to stretching while warm, so take special care when handling them. Move the ironing board next to a table or counter to help support the fabric when pressing.

Press as you sew. Never cross a seam, dart, tuck or pleat with another seam without pressing it first.

Prevent seam allowance imprints by using a curved surface like a seam roll or Seam Stick under the seamline.

Serged or double-stitched seams should be pressed toward the garment back whenever possible.

Test a fabric scrap to determine the correct iron temperature. If the fabric is fragile or sensitive to heat, use a press cloth. Try different levels of pressure to see how it affects the fabric. Iron pressure of any kind can permanently distort or flatten some ribbings or sweater knits. Hold the iron over the fabric for steaming; then lightly finger-press the seam.

Use lots of steam and a clapper to tame stubborn seams on fabrics that can endure the pressure.

From the July 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.