Knit-ty Gritty
Hemming
Sew hems on knit garments by hand or machine. First interface the hem with a very lightweight fusible interfacing to keep it from stretching; turn it up and stitch.
A stretch twin needle produces an excellent hem with some stretch. Machine stitching on the crosswise fabric grain can ripple the hem, so don't stretch the hem while sewing. A serger coverstitch also gives a nice hem finish.
Topstitched hems are more casual than blindstitched hems. A blind-hem catchstitch is an excellent choice if sewing by hand--each stitch is a backstitch, adding flexibility to the hem.
To machine-stitch a blind hem, fold up the hem, then turn back the garment just below the hem raw edge. Stitch with the straight stitches on the extended section, barely catching the fold with the left swing of the needle (6).
For a serger blind hem, use a three-thread stitch. Set the machine to the longest and widest stitch possible; slightly loosen the needle thread tension. Match the needle thread to the garment. Turn up the hem as for the blind hem above. Serge along the hem upper edge, barely catching the fold with the needle (7). When the hem is pressed, you'll see tiny picks of thread on the right side.
From the July 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.
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