Do-It-Yourself: Machine Maintenance

Needle Knowledge

THERE'S A LARGE VARIETY OF NEEDLES AVAILABLE TODAY but the general rules for usage still hold true. Use sharp points for woven fabrics, ball-point needles for knits and universal points for both wovens and knits. Needle sizes are usually marked with European and American numbers, with the European number first. Needle sizes range from 60/8 (finest) to 120/19 (thickest).

Ball-point/stretch needles have a slightly rounded tip that goes between the threads of a knit fabric--available in sizes 70/10 through 100/16.

Sharp (Microtex) needles have a sharp point to pierce the threads of woven fabric--good for heirloom sewing and quilt piecing. Available in sizes 60/8 through 90/14.

Universal needle points are slightly rounded for use with knit fabrics, yet sharp enough for wovens--available in sizes 60/8 through 120/19.

Denim/jeans needles have an extra-sharp point and stiff shank for stitching denim, heavy faux leather and other densely woven fabrics. Available in sizes 70/10 through 110/18.

Leather needles have a wedge-shaped point to penetrate leather, suede, heavy faux leather and nonwoven fabrics--available in sizes 80/12 through 110/18.

Machine-embroidery needles are designed to prevent thread shredding and breakage when sewing dense designs with rayon, metallic and other embroidery threads. Available in sizes 75/11 through 90/14.

Metallic needles feature a longer eye, fine shaft and sharp point to eliminate thread breakage, shredding and skipped stitches. They also work well with monofilament threads. Also known as Metallica, Metafil and Metallic Machine Embroidery--available in sizes 70/10 through 90/14.

Quilting needles have a sharp tapered point to sew through thick layers and across seams--available in sizes 75/11 through 90/14.

Topstitch needles have an extra-sharp point, larger eye and groove to accommodate topstitching thread. Available in sizes 80/12 through 100/16.

From the July 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.