Designing for Plus Sizes
Ready, Set, Fabricate
After analyzing the pattern's design lines or basic framework, it's time to put some meat on the bones by selecting fabric. The pattern envelope will suggest fabric types, but as the designer, you'll decide on the fabric's visual elements that work for you.
Color. Lighter, brighter and warmer colors--like red, yellow and orange--make a garment area look larger, while darker, duller and cooler colors--such as blue, green and purple--make a garment look relatively smaller.
Texture. Fabrics that are shiny, rough, stiff or crisp will make the areas they cover look larger than fabrics that are relatively matte, smooth and drapey. Fabrics that visually enlarge are satin, lamé or other metallic fabrics, fuzzy woolens, fleece, fake fur, velvet, chenille, corduroy, lace, bouclé, tweed, quilted fabrics, stiff denim, taffeta, canvas, poplin and organza.
Even though these textured fabrics visually enlarge, their very characteristics can also distract from the body underneath. For an A-line dress, a crisp linen, which would skim the figure, would look better on a plus-size woman than a clingy T-shirt knit, which reveals every roll.
Pattern. Whether woven or printed, fabrics with patterns or motifs that are light or brightly colored and sharply focused will make the area look bigger than prints or patterns that are muted, subtle and less focused. For example, a sky-blue fabric printed with bright white flowers looks larger than the same blue printed with soft, misty shapes.
In addition, some printed and woven patterns are strongly directional, and they function just like design lines. Strong horizontal patterns, such as horizontal stripes, the crosswise ribs of ottoman and prominent horizontal bars in plaids, may widen the areas they cover. Strong vertical patterns, such as vertical stripes, wide-wale corduroy, prominent vertical bars in plaids, or printed motifs like long-stemmed roses lined up vertically, can slenderize. Prominent twill weaves, stripes and plaids cut on the bias, and diagonal-print motifs function visually just like diagonal design lines. Polka dots or swirling motifs work visually like circular design lines.
All of this certainly doesn't mean large women should never use fabrics with bright colors, shiny or fuzzy textures, or bold patterns. Wear fabrics you love, but as a plus-size designer, think about how a fabric will work for your design and your figure. Don't eliminate them, instead use colors, textures, and patterns to your advantage.
Did you find a stunning piece of hand-woven windowpane plaid for a jacket on your last trip? No problem. Just try to place the most visually prominent horizontal bars across the bust and hips to make your waist look smaller. If you love bright red, an entire business suit in red might make you look like an enormous stop sign, while a red blouse peeking out of a black jacket's neckline might light up your face and your spirit. A beautiful faux-fur collar and cuffs on a wool coat would look stylish, while an entire coat made of the same fabric might make you look like a grizzly bear. Likewise, if you want to sew a wedding gown for your plus-size daughter, there's no reason to avoid satin and lace. Just think about where to use them. If she's pear shaped, you might want to make the bodice out of a visually enlarging satin or textured lace, and choose a more matte and smooth fabric such as silk crepe for the skirt.
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