Cut stabilizer wide enough to hoop and as long as each lower-band strip. Fuse it to the wrong side of the 14"-wide, lower-band strip(s) along one long edge. For the sleeves, cut stabilizer wide enough to hoop and as long as the sleeve-rectangle width. Fuse a piece to one end of each sleeve rectangle.
Hoop the lower band strip(s), and embroider the entire strip(s) as close as possible to the long edge (2). Hoop the fused short end of each sleeve rectangle, and embroider across the short end, as close as possible to the short edge (3). Carefully remove the stabilizer from all sections.
Testing first in an inconspicuous place, check to see if the seam sealant dries clear. (If it doesn't, try different brands until you find one that does.) Lightly dab seam sealant along the scalloped outer edge of the embroidery on the sleeves and lower-band sections, and let it dry.
Press the embroidery from the wrong side. Trim the excess fabric from around the scalloped edges on the sleeve and lower-band sections (4). Press again from the wrong side.
Preparing the Fronts & Back
Fold one blouse-front rectangle in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Press the fold, making sure it's ongrain.
Set up the machine with all-purpose thread and the universal needle.
With the fold to the right of the presser foot and using the throatplate guides, stitch a 3/8"-wide tuck, the entire length of the fold.
Measure 1" to either side of the tuck's stitching, fold the fabric, press, and stitch two more 3/8"-wide tucks. Repeat to sew three evenly spaced tucks on the remaining blouse-front rectangle.
Attach a blindstitch foot to the machine. Insert the topstitch needle, and thread the machine with 12-wt. cotton thread in the needle and bobbin. Select a "bridging stitch" (5) 1.5 mm long and 6 mm wide (or as wide as your machine will allow).
Place the fold of one tuck against the left side of the foot's guide. Stitch down the tuck, catching just the fabric fold in the far-left swing of the needle to form a delicate lace edge. Repeat for the five remaining tucks. Press the tucks flat.
Place the two blouse-front pieces right sides together, with the tucks carefully aligned. Place the blouse-front pattern over the tucked front pieces, and cut the blouse-front pieces to size.
Place the blouse-front pieces right side up on the ironing board, and press the tucks toward the side seams.
Aligning the upper corners of the side seams, place the blouse-back pattern over the blouse-front pattern, and fold up the lower edge of the back pattern even with the blouse-front pattern. Using the folded pattern, cut the blouse back from the fabric.
Set up the machine with all-purpose thread and the universal needle.
If you're using 45"-wide fabric, measure the width of blouse back along the lower edge, and cut one of the embroidered lower bands to this length. Along the lower edge, measure the blouse front from the side-seam cut edge to the facing cut edge. Cut the remaining lower band into two pieces this length. Right sides together, sew one front lower-band section to each short end of the back lower-band section (6).
With right sides together, stitch the blouse back to the fronts at the shoulder and side seams. Serge- or zigzag-finish the seam allowances. Around the lower edge, turn under the edge 1/4" and press. Turn under again 5/8" and press.
Trim the lower band to 11" wide. Turn under the long, raw edge 1/4" and press. Turn under again 5/8" and press.
Cut stabilizer wide enough to hoop and as long as each lower-band strip. Fuse it to the wrong side of the 14"-wide, lower-band strip(s) along one long edge. For the sleeves, cut stabilizer wide enough to hoop and as long as the sleeve-rectangle width. Fuse a piece to one end of each sleeve rectangle.
Testing first in an inconspicuous place, check to see if the seam sealant dries clear. (If it doesn't, try different brands until you find one that does.) Lightly dab seam sealant along the scalloped outer edge of the embroidery on the sleeves and lower-band sections, and let it dry.
Measure 1" to either side of the tuck's stitching, fold the fabric, press, and stitch two more 3/8"-wide tucks. Repeat to sew three evenly spaced tucks on the remaining blouse-front rectangle.
If you're using 45"-wide fabric, measure the width of blouse back along the lower edge, and cut one of the embroidered lower bands to this length. Along the lower edge, measure the blouse front from the side-seam cut edge to the facing cut edge. Cut the remaining lower band into two pieces this length. Right sides together, sew one front lower-band section to each short end of the back lower-band section (6).