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Top 10 Fitting Tips

4 Plan ahead.

Perfect fit is accomplished when garments just skim the body, without pulling or sagging. To minimize fitting problems, make clothing on the larger side with extra ease and/or wider seam allowances (cut 1"-wide vertical seams instead of the standard 5/8") so you have room for adjustments.

5 Have realistic expectations.

If you're used to jogging suits or other knit clothing that stretches easily as you move, you may need to go through an adjustment period when wearing wovens and more fitted styles. Darted pants with a waistband aren't meant to fit the same as pants with elastic waists.

The same pattern made in different fabrics won't fit the same. Spending time perfecting one basic pattern won't guarantee a perfect fit every time. Fabric weight and construction affect fit. It's great to begin with a favorite pattern, but realize that heavy fabric takes up more space. You'll have to make a garment bigger if you originally made it in light- to mediumweight fabric and vice versa.

6 Study the standards.

The first rule for fitting hems is to defer to personal preference, but if you need guidance, follow the industry standards to save time and flatter body proportions. Long-sleeve hems should just touch the top of the hands with arms at your sides and hands bent upward. Make coat sleeves 1/2" longer so they cover garments worn underneath.

There are two standards for pant hems: just touching the tops of the feet (without a break) and bagging slightly on the tops of the feet (with a break). Pants with a break are about 1/2" longer than pants without. These standards are for normal dress pants with a 16" to 18" circumference at the lower edge. Narrower pants need to be shorter because they aren't wide enough to fall over the feet; wider pant hems (such as palazzo pants) often fall to the floor.

Skirts and dresses have two standard hem lengths, waltz or tea length (just above the ankle) and floor length (touching the floor). For shorter garments, find the most flattering length for your legs. This is usually somewhere just above the middle of the calf for shorter styles, and below mid-calf for longer styles. To save time, take measurements from flattering garments and record the lengths.

...more tips

From the September 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.



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