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Top 10 Fitting Tips

7 Build a foundation for fit.

When you fit, always wear the undergarments and shoes that you'll wear with the garment, as these items greatly impact the fit and feel. Close buttons and zippers, and fasten or pin openings just as they will be at completion so garments drape properly. Jackets or coats should be fitted to be buttoned, regardless of whether you'll wear them that way or not. Try on jackets and outer garments over the clothes they'll be worn with.

In addition to dressing properly, always fit while standing on a firm foundation, like wood or tile floors, as opposed to carpet. When flat surfaces aren't available, stand on a piece of wood, or build or purchase a short riser. Three-way mirrors are ideal for fitting yourself but if your budget and space don't allow, a floor-length mirror combined with a hand mirror works well. Always fit in a well-lit area so you can see pull lines or extra fabric.

8 Follow a system.

Using a system will greatly simplify the fitting process--start at the top and go down. Analyze the neck area and move down to the shoulders, then the torso, sleeves, waist, hips and hem. Since what is above will affect what is below, alter upper areas first, then fit the lower areas. For example, alter a jacket's shoulder width before fitting for sleeve length.

Look for lines that hold fitting clues. Pull lines indicate garments are too tight and need to be let out, while sag lines indicate garments are too loose and need to be taken in.

9 Remember, fitting is an ongoing process.

Bodies change over time as a natural part of aging, not only from fluctuations in weight, but also changes in posture. Necks and shoulders tend to tilt forward and become rounded and narrower (unless you carry weight in your upper body and then they become wider); waists spread, and hips flatten.

10 Don't get overwhelmed.

Unless you're sewing for others, you don't have to master every fitting problem, just the ones required by your shape. If you have short arms, learn how to shorten all types of sleeves. If you're a plus-size, become an expert at enlarging patterns, changing darts, or the myriad ways to add to garments such as gussets, pleats, etc. Accept your own figure variations and learn to fit them.



...sources

From the September 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.



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