Star Quality

Cutting & Stabilizing

For tubular fabric, examine both folded edges to determine if one looks better than the other; cut the tube open on the less-attractive fold. If pattern pieces must include portions of the remaining fold, hold a steam iron over the fabric, then smooth the foldline with your fingers. Don't press the fabric with the iron.

Cut out the jacket using the modified pattern pieces. Stabilize the centerfront edges with fusible stay tape on the fabric wrong side. Also fuse the tape over the shoulder and armhole seamlines. Stabilize the front and back neckline edges with directional staystitching 1/4" from the cut edge (2).

To avoid stretching the neckline curves while stitching, place a finger behind the presser foot to hold back the fabric. Stitch 1" to 2", release the fabric, then repeat.

Trace or print out the appliqué motifs onto paper, and glue the paper to lightweight cardboard. Allow the glue to dry, then cut out the shapes. Trace around the template on scraps of the boiled wool, reversing half the motifs. Cut six to seven of each motif with sharp scissors.

Appliqué Layout

Plan the appliqué layout by placing the jacket fronts side by side with the center fronts together. (For a princess-seam garment, sew the center fronts to the side fronts before you begin.) Arrange the appliqués and pin them in place, avoiding the bust point.

Place the jacket fronts on either side of the back, abutting the side seams. Continue the design layout over each side seam, extending it slightly onto the back.

Lay out each sleeve next to its adjoining garment front, aligning the underarms. Finish the design layout, staggering the sleeve appliqués.

From the November 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.