Pattern Play

Modify the Basic Bodice

Create any of the featured peplums by using a basic bodice pattern as a guide. On the featured garments, the collar is omitted and the front bodice pieces aren't cut on the fold––they're separated and finished as a placket, with either buttons and buttonholes or snaps and hooks and eyes as closures. Liberties were taken in the design of each placket, but here we focus on the peplum. The featured peplums are all created separately from the garment. Then the peplum upper edge is stitched to the bodice lower edge with right sides facing. The seams are serge-finished and pressed toward the bodice.

What You'll Need

• Jacket or blouse pattern with a basic bodice (such as McCall's 4369)
• Fabric and notions according to pattern envelope (plus extra fabric determined by desired peplum style)
• Pattern paper
• French curve
• Clear tape

Cut out the front bodice piece from the pattern. Draw a line 1" below the waistline (1/2" is added for ease, 1/2" for seam allowances); cut the pattern along this line (1). Repeat to add 1" below the waistline on the back pattern and facing pieces. Cut the back and facing pieces along the marks. Set aside the upper bodice patterns. The lower pattern pieces are the peplum-pattern templates.

The featured peplum-pattern templates extend 9" below the natural waistline. To lengthen the peplum, add the desired extra length to the peplum pattern pieces by taping extra pattern tissue below the peplum pattern lower edge and extending the side seams and center-front seams the desired amount. Add 1/2" to the desired length for seam allowances. Follow the side-seam curve as you extend the side seamline (2). To shorten the peplum, cut off the desired amount from the lower edge.

Add 1/2" to the peplum upper edge to account for seam allowances. Cut out the front peplum pattern. Repeat to create a peplum pattern for the back and facing. Transfer all markings from the pattern to the new peplum pieces.

Place the front peplum-pattern template on a flat work surface. Draw a vertical line through the dart from the pattern upper edge to the hemline; cut along the line (3).

Transfer the dart to the hemline. Flare out each pattern section slightly so one piece overlaps the other; tape the sections together along the dart seamlines only (4). Place pattern paper under the pattern and trace the new peplum shape (5). Cut out the new peplum pattern. It has a wider hemline for dramatic flare, but the waistline measure remains constant.

Repeat to flare the back pattern piece and facing. Create new peplum patterns for the back and facing to use as templates for each peplum design.

Basic Peplum

Copy the front peplum pattern onto new paper. Transfer all markings. Position a French curve along the pattern center-front seam and draw a curve down to the hemline (6). Cut along the curve. Use the pattern to cut both a right and left peplum and lining pieces from the fabric. Follow the pattern instructions to construct the garment, adding the lined peplum into the instructions as an extension of the bodice.