Pattern Play

Ruffled Peplum

A ruffled peplum requires more fabric. The featured style has three layers of ruffles and requires 2 1/5 times the amount of peplum fabric.

Multiply the finished waist measurement by 2 1/2 to obtain the ruffle length measurement. Subtract the waist measurement from the ruffle measurement. Divide this number by five and mark the peplum pattern into fifths, using the measurement to evenly space the marks. Draw vertical lines at the marks from the peplum upper edge to the hem (7).

Place the marked pattern over a sheet of pattern paper. Slash and spread the pattern, cutting along the marked lines and maintaining the curvature of the pattern while spreading. Extend the pattern piece until it measures the ruffle length, keeping the five sections evenly spaced. Tape the slashed pieces on the paper, and then trace the new pattern (8).

Draw three equidistant horizontal lines across the pattern length (9). Cut along the lines. When cutting the ruffles from fabric, add 1/2" to the upper tier lower edge. Add 1 1/2" to each lower tier lower edge. This allows for coverage and a rolled hem.

Cut one upper and two lower tier ruffle strips from the fabric. Cut a right and left front peplum piece from the fabric; cut the back on the fold.

Stitch a narrow rolled hem on each ruffle strip lower edge.

Stitch the peplum side seams to attach the front pieces to the back. Hem the peplum lower edge.

Stitch each ruffle upper edge with a gathering stitch. Pull the thread tails to gather each ruffle until it measures the same length as the peplum. Evenly distribute the gathers.

Topstitch the upper ruffle tier to the peplum upper edge. Position the second ruffle tier on the peplum so the ruffle upper edge is concealed by the upper ruffle tier hem; pin and then topstitch. Repeat to stitch the third ruffle beneath the second ruffle, making sure the ruffle hem extends slightly beyond the peplum hem.

Construct the garment following the pattern instructions. Add the peplum as an extension of the bodice. If desired, bind the placket edge for a professional looking finish.