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A Passion for Silk

Sewing Silk Fabrics

  • If the fabric is slippery, pin it to a sheet of tissue before cutting out the pattern.

  • Use sharp scissors to limit fabric movement when cutting.

  • To eliminate slippage while sewing, use a flat-bottom presser foot and increase the presser-foot pressure.

  • Pin lightweight silks within the seam allowances. Be sure pins are sharp and free from burrs.

  • Make sure your sewing machine is free of lint and oil.

  • Sew with polyester thread.

  • For lightweight silks use a new, sharp 65/9 needle; for medium- and heavyweight fabrics, use an 80/12 needle.

  • On lightweight fabrics, use a straight-stitch throatplate so the fabric isn't pulled into the hole.

  • If your machine only has a zigzag plate, cover a portion of the hole with clear tape.

  • To avoid puckered seams and/or slippage, place tissue paper on the seamline on top and under the fabric before stitching.

  • Mark lightweight silks with tailor's tacks or dressmaker's chalk.

  • Finish seams with serging or use French seams to prevent raveling. Consider adding an extra 1/4" to seam allowances when cutting fabrics that ravel easily like doupioni, noil and tussah.

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From the March 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.



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