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Q&A

By Marla Stefanelli

I would like to learn how to make handmade buttonholes.
Brittin B.,
e-mail


This is how buttonholes used to be made. The machine-made buttonhole is relatively new in the history of sewing--considering sewing machines were only invented in the 19th century.

It's best to work the buttonhole over two fabric layers. For a single fabric layer, apply fusible interfacing to the fabric wrong side.

If you've never sewn a buttonhole before, try it on a fabric scrap before stitching on the actual project. This will also ensure the buttonhole length is correct for the button. To determine the correct buttonhole length see "Just How Long?" below.

Draw a line on the fabric at the buttonhole position, aligning it with the threads in the fabric weave.

Sew a running stitch around the buttonhole line, making the stitches parallel to and 1/16" to 1/8" from the line, and even with the ends (1).

Carefully cut on the line just to the running stitches at each end.

Use a strong thread such as buttonhole twist or 12-wt., 20-wt. or 30-wt. thread depending on the desired results. Cut a single thread long enough to complete the entire buttonhole.

Work the buttonhole stitch around the opening, inserting the needle through the opening and exiting just past the running stitch (2). The goal is to work the stitches evenly and with the same tension all the way around the buttonhole.

Work the ends with radiating stitches to form a rounded end (3) or bartack the ends.

Work the bars when you come to them. First take three stitches across each end, from one side of the buttonhole to the other to form a bartack (4). Then work the buttonhole stitch over the threads, catching the fabric at the same time (5).



Just How Long?

Measure around the button with a strip of paper, creasing it where the ends meet. Remove the paper and fold the strip in half, matching the creases. Measure from the fold to the crease, and draw your buttonhole line this length.

From the March 2005 issue of Sew News magazine.