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Q&A

By Gena Bloemendaal

Why do the zippers in my ready-to-wear and handmade garments seem to wave instead of lie flat?
Patti P.,
e-mail


If a zipper has a rippled appearance the culprit is often not the zipper itself. The abundance of "stretchy" spandex-blended fabrics on the market is the probable cause. If fabric stretches during the zipper insertion, it will relax to its natural state after stitching, but the zipper maintains its original length, thus causing the puckers.

To prevent zippers from rippling, try fusing strips of lightweight fusible stabilizer to the seam allowances at the zipper opening. Be sure to fuse the interfacing with an up and down motion, not back and forth, to prevent fabric distortion.

Zippers are often sold folded in a thin cardboard envelope. Press the zipper flat before inserting, using the tip of the iron to press the tape only, not the coils. Then stitch the zipper as directed in the manufacturer's instructions.

When purchasing ready-to-wear garments, review how the zipper was inserted and check to see if it lies flat when the garment is worn. If the garment is unlined and the zipper is simple to remove, you can try reinserting the zipper following the above method.

Launder the garment per the instructions on the tag or label. Excessive heat can cause fabric shrinkage and promote the wavy zipper effect.

From the April 2006 issue of Sew News magazine.