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      Subscribe | Subscriber Services | Give a Gift | Sew'N'Shop

Q&A | Hide That Zipper!

By Gena Bloemendaal

How do you insert an invisible zipper?
Marji L.,
e-mail



Invisible zippers are staples for special-occasion wear and leave stitch-free seams on fabrics where stitching could distract, such as organza or satin. As intimidating as they might seem, invisible zippers are actually pretty easy to insert, particularly if you use an invisible-zipper foot on your machine. If your machine didn't come with this particular foot, check with the machine manufacturer to see what options are available for your machine make and model. Some foot accessories are interchangeable among machine brands, so you could also purchase an invisible-zipper foot at a fabric store.

Prewash the zipper and fabric. When dry, press the zipper tape from the wrong side (1) using a synthetic or nylon setting on your iron to avoid damaging the coils. Don't press the coils.

Right sides together and aligning the coils with the seam allowance, pin the zipper to the right garment piece. The top stop should be 3/4" below the garment cut edge. Place the right zipper foot groove over the coils (2). Stitch as close to the zipper stop as possible; backstitch to secure.

Pin the remaining zipper tape right sides together with the opposite garment piece. Align the coils on the seam allowance. Using the left groove in the zipper foot, stitch the zipper in place as for the previous side.

To finish the seam, close the zipper and then adjust the zipper foot so the needle stitches through the outer notch. Align the seams and pull the zipper end to the right, away from the seam allowance (3).

Raise the presser foot and align the needle next to the lowest stitch. Lower the presser foot and stitch for 2" to 3". Tie off the threads. Switch to a regular presser foot to stitch the remainder of the seam.

From the June/July 2007 issue of Sew News magazine.