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Q&A | Underlining

By Linda Lee

What is underlining and why do you use it? I'm making a formal for my daughter and the pattern calls for underlining. I've never used it before and am not sure if I need to.
Anita

The use of an underlining is dictated by the kind of garment you're making and the fabric you're using. Underlining adds body and durability to a garment by supporting and reinforcing the fabric and the seams. It helps reduce wrinkling and prevents stretching. It can also act as a foundation so the facings and hems can be sewn to the garment without the stitches showing through to the garment right side.
When used with a sheer fabric, underlining adds opaqueness in certain areas of a garment. For other fabrics it can help maintain a silhouette or shape that otherwise can't be achieved.
Appropriate fabrics range from sheer organza and cotton batiste to linen and flannel. It's always a good idea to test a few options by placing two fabrics together and holding them over your hand to see what the draping effect is. The concept of an underlining is that the underling fabric is cut out using the same pattern pieces as the outer fabric.The underlining is then basted to the outer fabric around the edges and along dart lines and other foldlines.The resulting piece is treated as one layer of fabric, which is what distinguishes it from a lining.

From the October/November 2008 issue of Sew News magazine.