Full Bust Adjustment Instructions

Full Bust Adjustment Instructions

Full-Bust Adjustment

Learn how to make a full bust adjustment to a bodice pattern.

Commercial patterns are usually designed for a B-cup bra size. If you wear larger than a B-cup and your pattern doesn't include a dart, perform a full-bust adjustment pattern alteration (often referred to as an FBA) to achieve a more flattering fit.

To determine if you need an FBA, find your pattern cup size, which might not be the same as your bra cup size.

Measure your high bust and full bust; record. Subtract the high bust measurement from the full bust measurement; this is the cup size measurement. A difference of 1" =A cup, 2"=B cup, 3"=C up, 4"=D cup and so on. When the measurement is 3" or more, an FBA provides a better fit through the bustline by adding additional length and width at the correct location 

Hold the bodice front pattern up to your body, aligning the shoulder seamline with your shoulder. Mark your bust point on the pattern.

Place the bodice front pattern on a flat work surface. 

Draw line 1 from the bust point to the side seam. Draw line 2 from the bust point to the lower edge. Draw a line 3 from the bust point to the armseye center. Draw a line 4 from line 2 to the center front.

Cut along lines 2 and 3, beginning at the lower edge and leaving a small hinge at the armseye. Cut along line 1 from the side seam to, but not through, the bust point. Cut along line 4. Place pattern paper under the cut pattern area, and then spread the pattern pieces according to the amount needed to fit the bust size. For example, spread the pattern pieces 1" for a C cup. This adjustment creates a new dart along the side seam. Tape the pattern sections in place.

Full Bust Adjustment

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adding an inch for a C cup
if the difference in the measurement between high and regular is 3 inches- I would dividd it into two therefore adding 1.5 inches and not 1 inch as decribed above.
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