The Wide Variation Of The Shawl Collar
The last collar we drafted was the shawl collar, but it was a narrow variation.
As you can see in the picture below, the collar just covers the back neck seam line.
So, how do we draft a collar that will spread gracefully over the shoulders?
As you can see, this collar has the same stand as the previous collar, but angles out over the shoulders.
It also spreads out over the back of the garment.
Remember, we are using Butterick 5678 to draft all of the collars in this series. To draft the wide variation of the shawl collar, we will begin just the same as we did with the narrow variation. Here is a link to refresh your memory, https://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2013/06/05/the-shawl-collar-tutorial-by-guest-blogger-rhonda-buss/
Briefly we will go through the steps.
Begin with the center front pattern piece. Remove the seam allowances as it will make drafting much easier and less confusing.
Determine how deep you would like the center front opening to be and determine the width of the buttons that you will be using. Place a mark for the break point and add the button extension.
Draw a line connecting the neck edge at the shoulder with the edge of the button extension.
Measure the back neckline. This will determine how much the line will be extended past the shoulder. The width of the collar will be 2 1/2″.
Divide the extended area into 4 equal sections. Please remember to number the sections.
Cut through the sections and spread them equally so that they form a curved line. The more you spread the sections, the flatter the collar will lay over the shoulders.
Extend the original collar line. For the collar that I drafted, I extended this line to 5″. Draw in the desired shape of your collar. You are free to be quite inventive if you like!
If you would like an even wider version of this collar, more of a cape collar, extend this line another 2″ to 3″ as you see in the above picture.
The final pattern. This piece will be your center front pattern piece as well as your front facing piece, so you will cut 2 for the front and 2 for the facing.
As you can see, I made the pattern into a shirt dress which is perfect for summer. This is quite simple to do, just extend the pattern to your desired length. Who knew that one pattern could be so very versatile?!!
Find more at Rhonda’s Creative Life!