The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along
This jacket is so fun to stitch and is very versatile. If you are looking for a great mid-weight jacket please give this a try. I, personally like it in the longer version. So, grab the pattern and get thee to a fabric store! We’ve got some jacket makin’ to do.
And, now here’s Rhonda
Just in time for fall, a fun sew along using the Upline Jacket from Sewn Square One. An urban jacket that features raglan sleeves, curved princess line seams, pockets and 3 length possibilities.
The collar on this jacket is fabulous. It’s a large collar that can be worn open,
or closed. Whether worn open or closed, the collar has been designed so that there is plenty of room to tuck a scarf around your neck. Always a plus!
The pockets are set into the front princess line seams. This may seem a little daunting, but during the sew along, we will take the process step-by-step so that your pockets will be flawless.
When choosing the size that you will make, pay close attention to the measurements given on the pattern envelope.
A considerable amount of ease has been added to the pattern. All 3 versions of the jacket have a back belt that I chose to eliminate. As you can see in the picture below, I pinched in the ease to give a closer fit. As always, I recommend making a quick muslin.
For fabric choices, there are so many possibilities. You can go full blast over the top, or keep it completely toned down.
One of my favorite places to shop for coat fabrics is the home dec department. The fabric that I used for the jacket that is in the magazine is ultra suede, intended for upholstery. It’s rugged and yet supple with a nice drape. And I might add, a great pattern!
Another fabric from the home dec department is this fabulous squiggle print. The nature of a coat allows for a sturdier fabric, so home dec fabrics will translate well to coat patterns. Just keep in mind the print, nothing that’s too large, and the weight of the fabric, nothing too stiff or heavy.
Corduroy would make an excellent choice. Just be sure and choose one with a wider wale.
A low pile faux fur would also be a fun choice. Below are 2 possibilities that would really be quite eye catching.
If you are feeling a little more adventurous, leather, or a faux leather would also make a great jacket. A little word of warning, if you have never worked with leather, this would not be my first choice for this project. A simple skirt would make a much better first project. Leather is a wonderful fabric to work with, but it does take a little finesse and experience, so start easy and build up.
For the sew along, I have chosen a lovely piece of wool and I’m pairing it with a bright lining. One thing to keep in mind is that the pattern instructions talk about underlining. We will be doing a traditional lining method. It’s quite easy to do and gives a more polished finish to the jacket.
When thinking about lining, this is another opportunity to think a little out of the box and do something fun. Why not have something a little unexpected on the inside?
I especially enjoyed inserting the zipper into the jacket that I made for the magazine. I will be making the longest version of the coat which is a mid-thigh length. Should be nice over skirts and lovely paired with slacks as well. Although the pattern shows the longer versions with buttons, we will be doing a zipper closure.
A couple of notes on the zipper. I was able to purchase the zipper I used for the shorter jacket at my local chain fabric store. Be sure to purchase a zipper with teeth that are more substantial, like metal, or if you choose, plastic. Do not use a zipper that is intended for dresses, or skirts. It will not have the look that you want and it will give the jacket a homemade look.
If you would like to do a longer coat and insert a center front zipper, you will most likely need to order the zipper.
One last note on the zipper, if you look closely at my coat and the coat on the pattern envelope, you will see that I used a longer zipper. I felt that it gave the jacket a little more polished finish. So, rather than the 22″ zipper that the pattern calls for, I used a 24″ zipper.
You might enjoy accenting your seams with a little top stitching thread. Just keep in mind that if you are using a heavier thread, you will also need to use an appropriate needle. Schmetz makes a wonderful top stitching needle.
There’s still time to join the sew along, just purchase your pattern and meet up here next week as we get started on construction. In the meantime, start thinking about what fabric you might like to use. There are so many possibilities.
And until next time…