We are moving along on the Upline Jacket from Sewn Square One. This jacket will be a great addition to your fall and winter wardrobe. If you haven’t started yet, there is still time to join in. Purchase your pattern now and review last week’s blog post for more on the pattern and prep.
I’d also like to mention that there are two different pattern looks to the Upline Jacket. One shows the collar unzipped and the other is zipped but rolled down. The editorial image has the collar zipped but left up. It’s a fun feature of the jacket.
And, now let’s have Rhonda get started!
We all love pockets! A few years back, my husband bought a new ski jacket. What was he most excited about? The amount of pockets that were in the jacket. It really was incredible, I think the jacket must have had 10 or 12 pockets. Now, this part of the story is funny now, but not then. He actually thought he lost our passports! No, they were in a pocket that he had forgotten was there. Maybe one can have too many pockets!!!!
The Upline Jacket from Sewn Square One has 2 front pockets. They are beautifully set into the curved princess line seams. They may seem a little daunting if you’ve never inserted a pocket, but trust me, just take it step by step and you’ll have beautiful pockets.
Before we get started on inserting the pockets, let’s go over a few pattern notes. As I said in our last post, I am making the longer, View 1 version, but I’ve decided to change it up a bit. I love the zipper application and I think it will be little more interesting to see the insertion during the sew along.
Take a look at the center front panel for View 3, the jacket that has the center front zipper. You’ll see that center front is marked and there’s only 1/4″ on the other side of center front.
Now, let’s take a look at the center front panel for View 1. An extension has been added to compensate for the buttons. If you want buttons, then you’re good to go, but if not, take a look at the next picture.
In the picture below, I have laid the View 3 pattern piece over the View 1 pattern piece. You can see that the pattern pieces are exactly the same at the neckline except for the button extension on View 1. In order to adjust the View 1 pattern piece for the addition of the zipper, simply find center front and mark 1/4″ past center front and cut off the extra.
Now, let’s take a look at some of the other pattern pieces.
Below are the collars that have been provided for View 1,2 and View 3. The collars are not the same. So if you are making the change for the zipper, use the collar for View 3.
Pay close attention to the grainlines on the collars. Both the top and under collar are cut on the bias. This is what will give the lovely roll to the collar. PLEASE do not cut the collars on the straight of grain!
The sleeve cuff is also cut on the bias.
The pocket patterns are also quite different. In the picture below, I have laid View 2 over View 1.
And below, View 3 over View 2. Please pay close attention and make sure that you use the appropriate pocket pattern for the view that you would like to make.
The pocket patterns for this jacket are rather shallow. For View 3, a shallow pocket is necessary. But, we all like putting our hands in our pockets and if you’re like me, they are a great place to loose lipstick and money
Since I would like to be able to put my hand in the pocket, I decided to lengthen the pocket pattern. Simple enough to do, just lay the pattern on a piece of paper and lengthen the pattern 3″ as you see below. Be sure to transfer the grainline and the dots to the new pattern piece.
My new pocket. Nice and deep.
To begin the process of attaching the pockets to the front of the jacket, be sure to mark the dots that are on the pocket pattern and the corresponding dots that are on the front and side jacket pattern pieces. I make a small snip to mark where the 2 should meet.
The pocket matched to the side panel.
The seam allowances for this pattern are 1/2″. We will make 1 exception though. When sewing the pocket to the front and side panels, use a 1/4″ seam allowance. Sew from the top of the pocket to the bottom.
Once sewn, turn the pieces to the front side and edge stitch the pocket. Not only will this make for a nice finished edge, it also helps to keep the pocket from stretching due to us taking our hands in and out of our pockets.
The pocket is now edge stitched from the top to the bottom.
Match the center front panel to the side panel and sew the 2 together. Stop the stitching at the dot that was marked and then start the stitching again at the other end.
Now that the seam has been stitched, lay the pocket open and press the seam open.
With the pocket still open, top stitch the seam.
Now that the front seam has been top stitched, it’s time to sew the pocket closed. As you can see in the picture below, the seam doesn’t lay flat.
Simply clip the seam allowance and this will allow the pocket to lay flat.
Sew the pocket closed.
We now have a lovely pocket.
And the little sneak peek on the inside looks lovely too!
Now that our pockets have been inserted, we can begin sewing the jacket together.
*A note on my jacket. I have used cotton batiste to underline my jacket. The cotton batiste adds body to the fabric and makes it wear beautifully. A garment that is underlined will not wrinkle like one that has not been underlined. The pattern talks about underlining the pattern pieces, but using a lining fabric. We will be making a separate lining for our jackets. So if you would rather not underline your jacket, just ignore the underlining instructions in the pattern. If you would like to underline your fabric, be sure to buy a good quality cotton batiste. Please do not use quilting cotton or muslin. Cut the cotton just as you would the fashion fabric. Each piece of the cotton should be hand basted to the fashion fabric prior to sewing. If you would like to read a little more about underlining, you can see the underlining that we did during the Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along, HERE.
Good Luck with your pockets!
Until next time,