How are your coats coming along? You’ll start to see Rhonda’s coat taking shape and the colors are beautiful. The great thing about spring is that you’ll be able to wear your Pepernoot coat for a bit. So, let’s get started!
Beginning a new project can seem a little intimidating at times. We want to do our best and have the outcome that we’ve seen in our mind. Now that we’ve talked in depth about the Pepernoot Coat pattern, and have it cut out, there’s nothing better to cast away the fears than just jumping in and getting started!
As we talked about in our last post, the front and back bodice both have darts. The bust dart on the front bodice is a good bit larger than the back dart.
When marking a dart, I like to make small clips at the base of the dart. This will make it much easier to sew and give you a guide point for your first stitches. Simply fold the dart, matching up the 2 clips and sew the dart.
Most likely, your fabric will be a little heavier since this is a coat. Once sewn, clip the dart open and press flat.
The darts on the back bodice are rather narrow, so rather than try to clip them open, just press them towards the center once they are sewn.
Because of the pattern on my fabric, and the thickness of my fabric, I did not press my center back seam to one side as you may notice in the instructions. I simply pressed the seam open. If you would like, the seam can be pressed to one side and then top stitched in place.
If you will be piping the yoke seams, now is the time to do so. The seam allowance is 1/2″, so be sure to lay the stitched edge of the piping exactly on the seam line.
Stitch right along the edge of the piping.
Once the piping has been sewn to the front and back bodice, attach the yokes.
If you are matching a pattern, please pay close attention as a mismatched pattern will be quite obvious.
Once the piping has been sewn on and the yokes are in place, we need to trim the cording from the seam edge. Simply grab the cord out of the piping, pull it out and trim away at least 1/2″ since our seam allowances are 1/2″.
Once I’ve trimmed the cord, I also like to clip the seam allowance of the cording on an angle at the seam edge. This will keep the seams from being quite as bulky.
Once all the trimming is complete, press the seam down.
Sew the back and front bodices to the skirt of the coat. I like to clip the edge of my darts to reduce bulk.
Once both sides of the dart have been clipped, the seam allowance will look like a “v”.
I then pressed the waistline seam open.
You can now see how the flowers have been matched. I had to make some decisions in regards to matching. Of course, the darts will take away a little of the shape of the flower. But in order to have the flowers match at the waist, I needed to mirror the flowers at center back.
Now that the skirts have been attached to the front and back bodices, sew the front to the back at the shoulder seams and side seams.
The coat is quickly coming together.
The back of the coat.
When matching patterns, sometimes decisions have to be made. I felt that it was more important for the pattern to match in the front than it was to have it matched down the side.
At this point, let’s set the coat aside and work on the lining.
The darts are not sewn into the front and back bodice of the lining, rather they become tucks.
Once again, clip the bottom of the tucks.
Fold in half and match the 2 clipped points.
Fold the tucks towards the center as you see below and baste in place.
Do the same with the tucks on the back bodice lining.
When looking at the back bodice lining pattern, you’ll see that there is an extra 1/2″ to the back bodice at center back. This has been included for a pleat that will give ease of movement when the coat is worn.
Sew the bodice together and stitch 1/2″ away from the edge. Then stitch again 1/2″ from the first seam. Look closely at the picture below and you’ll see pins about 1 1/2″ from the top and bottom of the bodice. Between these pins, change the tension to a basting stitch. Once the coat is finished we will take out the basting stitches and your pleat will be in place. Be sure to back stitch at the top and bottom of the basting stitches.
The back skirt lining also includes the pleat. If you have not cut out your skirt, you may eliminate the pleat as it is not needed. If you have already cut the skirt lining, simply stitch in 1/2″ and this will eliminate the back pleat.
Sew the front and back bodices to the skirts and press the seam allowance down toward the hem.
Sew the shoulder and side seams of the lining together.
Now sew the shoulder seams of the back facing to the front facing. A note about interfacing. I did not interface my facings. The fabric is quite heavy and adding interfacing would have made the facing far too heavy. Typically, the front and back facings would be interfaced with an interfacing that is appropriate for the fabric.
Once the facing has been sewn to the lining, I like to then press the seam allowance towards the lining and edge stitch around the facings.
Sew the sleeves into the lining and the lining is complete.
The sleeves on the coat have tabs that are non-functioning, so no need for buttonholes. Simply sew the tabs together, add the piping if you wish. One note about the sleeve tabs, My suggestion would be to baste at least one sleeve together, then baste it into the coat and and try it on to determine the length of the sleeve and the appropriate placement of the sleeve tab for you. You may need to adjust the the placement of the tab so that it isn’t too close to the bottom of the sleeve.
The sleeves are 2-piece sleeves, so be very careful to mark all notches on the sleeve cap to ensure proper placement. You’ll find that there is not a lot of ease in the cap, so the sleeves go into the armhole quite easily.
Now that my lining and the shell of my coat are together, I placed the 2 together to see how they look. I’m quite pleased!
The coat is looking quite nice. As I said in our last post, I’ll never be lost in a crowd!
In our next post, we will attach the hood, the center front zipper and the pockets. So we’re almost there!!!
Now that we’ve started the project, if you’ve changed your mind and would like to make a coat for yourself, you can find the pattern HERE. The sew along posts will remain on the Sew News blog, so you can always come back whenever you get started or whenever you would like to refer back to them.
Until next time,