This is a special portion of the sew along. Rhonda has written up a nice piece on making beautiful pockets for your Pepernoot Coat. The end is almost here! Please let us know if you have made the coat. We would love to see your version!
Nothing can make or break a garment faster than a poorly sewn pocket. Not only is the pocket on the Pepernoot Coat a large pocket, it also has a zipper, making it all the more intimidating. But you will soon see that inserting the zipper is really quite easy.
For my first coat, I used a metal zipper as it worked well with the fabric I chose for the coat. The pocket was attached with an edge stitch, so quite easy to do.
The coat for the sew along is a bit of a different animal. A metal zipper would attract quite a bit of attention and give the eye too much to look at since the pattern is large and quite busy. So for this coat, I chose a black plastic zipper. The instructions call for a 5.9″ zipper. Of course here in America that size isn’t available, so I went with a standard 5″ zipper. It’s large enough for my hand to slip through. It’s also readily available at your local chain fabric store.
Since our zipper size may be different than that specified in the pattern, mark the zipper placement on the zipper facing, but be sure to compare it to your zipper. You may need to shorten the opening a bit.
Mark the placement on the pocket and then match the marked facing to the markings on the pocket. Pin the pocket facing to the pocket.
Sew around the marked area.
Once sewn, clip the pocket area open. You will clip directly down the center, stopping about 1/2″ from either end. At that point, clip a “v” at the ends. Be sure to clip to the corner, but not through the corner.
Turn the facing to the wrong side of the pocket and press in place. You will now have a rectangular opening.
Now position the zipper in place.
Once pinned in place, edge stitch around the zipper. You will need to pick up the presser foot and move the zipper head in order to stitch around it.
The zipper is in place. Easy!
Since I have accented the yokes and the sleeve tabs with the black velvet piping, I thought I would also accent the pockets. If you are piping as I am, now is the time to pipe the pockets.
Rather than leaving the backside of my pocket unfinished, I cut a piece of lining to back the pocket.
Lay the pocket over the lining and stitch around leaving an opening at the bottom for turning.
You will need to create an opening for the zipper. Simply open the zipper and clip down the middle of the lining, leaving a “v” at either end just as we did when sewing the facing to the pocket.
Turn the lining back along the zipper. Pin in place and then hand sew the lining to the zipper. You now have a beautifully finished pocket that is ready to be attached to the coat.
Since the pattern of my fabric is so large, it was imperative that the pattern be matched. Prior to cutting my pocket, I tried the coat on, and decided where the pocket should be placed. Then I matched the pocket to the area to determine the placement of the fabric. A little tricky, but well worth the extra time.
Even if you are not matching a pattern, I highly recommend trying the coat on to determine the placement of the pocket.
The pocket is now pinned in place. To attach the pocket to the coat, I will simply edge stitch between the piping and the pocket. The stitching will be invisible.
As I said earlier, the pocket of the original coat was simply edge stitched in place. Here the stitching will show.
If you have read through the process of attaching the zipper and you still feel a little intimidated, you can always eliminate the zipper all together. Simply follow my instructions for lining the pocket.
Once the pocket has been lined, hand stitch the opening closed. Place the pocket on the coat.
In the picture below, I have pinned where you would start and stop stitching. This will leave ample room to slide your hand into the pocket. You will basically be creating a patch pocket with a side opening.
One pocket in place and one to go!!! Of course, I made the whole process of attaching the pocket a little more difficult for myself by choosing the fabric that I did. But, on the other hand, it makes for a nice challenge and challenges can be fun Once you see the finished coat, you’ll see that the pockets almost disappear into the coat when you look at it from the front.
In our next post, we will attach the hood, the center front zipper along with the lining, and hem the coat. We decided to separate the post for the pocket so that it wouldn’t be quite so overwhelming. I hope you are inspired to give the zippered pocket a try.
*Just a note on the center front zipper.
The zipper that I inserted in my first coat was the zipper you see on the left below. It’s called a water resistant zipper as when zipped up, rain and wind cannot get through the zipper as the teeth are completely enclosed. Note too that this is a 28″ zipper.
I purchased a 30″ parka zipper to use with this coat as it not only separates from the top, but from the bottom as well. So when I sit down, I can partially unzip the bottom for ease in sitting. There is plenty of room at the bottom of the coat to accommodate a 30″ zipper. Both of these zippers are available at your local chain fabric store.
I hope that you are enjoying the progress of your coats as much as I am.
If you have not yet purchased a pattern, you can find it HERE at Shop Sew It All. Remember, it’s a downloadable pattern, so it’s instantly in your hands!
Until next time…