Travel Trio Sew Along, week 2: Self-Lining for Reversible Garments

IfScreen Shot 2017 07 11 at 3.48.47 PM 181x300 Travel Trio Sew Along, week 2: Self Lining for Reversible Garments you’ve been dreaming of creating a versatile travel wardrobe, look no further than Christine Jonson‘s Travel Trio Two 331! Made from knit fabric, this pattern includes full patterns for three versatile, wrinkle-avoiding garments,  including a knit skirt, a funnel neck top and a hooded jacket. Travel Trio designer Christine Jonson joins the Sew News blog today with tips for creating lined versions of each garment, including the hooded jacket.

A simple one-seam design, this hoodie pattern is designed to be self-lined using a LYCRA blend fabric with good recovery and at least 60% stretch.

The shoulder seams of the designated right side should be pressed to the front. The shoulder seams of the lining side should be pressed to the back.  This allows the shoulder seam to lay flat and smooth.

It is important to choose the size of the button for your hoodie at this point. The opening of the loop should be just the right size to stretch over the button. If the loop is too big, it will leave a large gap between the center fronts of the jacket when buttoned and stick out when it isn’t buttoned! I recommend testing the loop and pinning it in place to test the size. Use the stretch to keep the loop as small as possible. An alternative is to place the loop lengthwise along the seam line.

Screen Shot 2017 07 18 at 10.56.23 AM 278x300 Travel Trio Sew Along, week 2: Self Lining for Reversible GarmentsSerging the sleeves into the armhole is a great technique that does take a bit of finesse. If this is a new technique for you, I recommend using a machine set to a basting stitch first. Baste the sleeve in, check that the notches match and the easing looks great before serging. Soon you will be comfortable enough to skip the basting step.

Serging a waist curve and hip curve can cause ripples in the seam. The best way to avoid this is to lengthen and/or loosen the tension on your stitch. Stitch slowly and match the curves exactly without pulling or stretching the seam.

Leaving a section of the lining underarm seam open to turn this reversible hoodie right side out is a good choice. It is difficult to close a seam invisibly either by hand or machine on a stretch fabric, so having it on the outside is not suggested.

To achieve the best outer seam possible, put a dot on the seam line at each end of a 5 inch section in the middle area of the lining underarm. Use a single needle stitch and sew from the dot to 3 inches away from the opening in both directions. Clip close to the seam line 1/2” down from the dot.

Then serge from the clip to the hem and the clip to the underarm. Now when you turn the lining right side out to top topstitch or hand stitch the opening it will be from the dot to the dot, not a curved serge stitch opening.

Now is a good time to press the seam lines on each side of the hoodie as needed.

When serging the outer fabric to the lining fabric it is very important to match them exactly at the hood center back, front neckline and bottom hem. Self-lining can be tricky as there is no actual hem that is turned up.

If both sides are the same fabric it is a little easier as they ease together under the presser foot equally. If the fabrics have different qualities it is best to hand baste them together before serging.

Add notches to match along the center fronts to be sure there is no pulling while serging, and that both ends match perfectly at the bottom. Otherwise the front will not hang well.

When serging the hem of the sleeves together follow the instructions in the pattern. The most important thing to remember is not to twist the sleeves. Lay the hoodie on a table and pin the underarm seams together. Don’t try to do this on your lap!

To keep the hood/neckline together for a great fit the neckline seam needs to be sewn together. This can be done with a longer straight machine stitch or a hand stitch. Match the shoulder seams and stop stitching at least 1 inch away from the front edge.

The piece of seam tape attached to both side seams helps to keep both side of the jacket hanging nicely. Any width of tape, ribbon or a fabric scrap will work. Please don’t skip this step.

Reach in through the sleeve opening, grab the opposite side sleeve hem and pull right side out.

Fold opening of sleeve lining together and machine topstitch a narrow hem or hand stitch together. Keep in mind that if this hoodie is reversible this seam will be on the outside! Sew carefully!

Sew your button on securely. If your hoodie is reversible sew a button on the opposite side as well.

Patch Pockets: Cut the patch pockets to the desired size and stitch in place before sewing the lining to the outer layer.

Inseam Pockets: Add dots to the side seam allowances (top and bottom) on all four sides where you want the pockets located. Cut 4 pocket lining pieces to size. Add 2” extensions to the side seams to attach the pocket lining. Attach lining to extension and stitch around. Sew side seams to dots.

Screen Shot 2017 07 11 at 3.49.54 PM 235x300 Travel Trio Sew Along, week 2: Self Lining for Reversible GarmentsThanks so much, Christine! There’s still time to join this sew along…and sew some versatile pieces before your next trip! Grab the pattern at and join us next week for design options so you can get even more mileage out of your pattern!


Read Week 1 of the Travel Trio Sew Along here.

 Travel Trio Sew Along, week 2: Self Lining for Reversible Garments
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2 Responses to Travel Trio Sew Along, week 2: Self-Lining for Reversible Garments

  1. Pingback: Travel Trio Sew Along, Week 1: Tips for Working with Knit Fabrics | Sew News

  2. Deborah O'Leary says:

    Thank you!