Welcome to our first sew along of 2018, friends! We’re starting off with a bang, with the amazing Luzerne Trench by Deer & Doe. If you’re not sure you need a trench in your life, let us convince you otherwise. Last week we shared some trench-spiration and this year, we’ve got more from the Deer & Doe team on the inspiration behind this particular design. And join us next week for more on fabric recommendations.
When we decided to stop selling our Pavot jacket, we promised we would add a new spring jacket to take its place in our pattern catalogue. However, copy-pasting was out of question! We took some elements of Pavot’s delicate style and imagined a feminine and urban trench coat, with lots of details and a timeless silhouette.
Luzerne has many classic details which make it an involved and rewarding sewing project, including a large collar with a collar stand, and bound buttonholes for a couture finish. The back yoke alludes to traditional storm flaps in a more streamlined way. Finally, buttoned sleeve tabs dress up the wrists of the two-piece sleeves.
Luzerne is unlined. This is a stance we took based on several factors: the season it’s designed for, the complexity level we wanted for this pattern, as well as our constraints for printing the paper version. The ease is thus drafted for a jacket with no lining. All visible seam allowances are bounded with bias tape, which also plays a role in shaping the shoulders and sleeve heads!
For the best results, we recommend using a fabric with some drape but still a nice body: avoid drapey wools and thin fabrics, and choose instead a light- to mid-weight twill or gabardine. You might even use a coated fabric or waterproof your finished project so you can wear your Luzerne trench coat in the rain!